Yogurt & Whey

February 1, 2023
Dashtaki's 100 recipes, most incorporating yogurt and whey (the liquid reserved after straining yogurt), are truly one of a kind, from proteins soaked in whey infused with various flavors to fanciful desserts like salty whey caramel frozen yogurt. Her narrative, too, demands to be read, with stories both ancient and modern and fillips of fancifulness and humor: ""When combined with whey, not only does the cauliflower sing, it puts on a one-woman chorus line". Two splendid photo inserts and occasional black-and-white line illustrations add to the otherworldliness of this collection. The author, sharing lessons from friends as well, offers advice not only on how to wait patiently while making Iranian foodstuffs like dizi (lamb stew) and Persian rice with the crispy bottom, called tah-diq, but also on how to be grateful for lives worth living, � la the Zoroastrian credo: "good thoughts, good words, good deeds." Plenty of these goods populate every page, such as tales of the family business (White Moustache yogurt) and the sense throughout of welcoming immigrants to their American homes.

COPYRIGHT(2023) Booklist, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Starred review from February 20, 2023
Dashtaki, founder of the White Moustache yogurt company, debuts with an edifying and delicious exploration of Zoroastrian cuisine and the many innovative uses of yogurt and its usually discarded by-product, whey. Whether taking center stage in recipes for labneh (“the creamy yogurt cheese you get from straining yogurt for a full day”) and kashk (“soured, dried yogurt balls that last for years”) or playing a supporting role in condiments (including whey-fermented kimchi), stews, rice, and meat dishes, the eponymous ingredients prove to be amazingly versatile. A lengthy and detailed introduction transports readers to the author’s homeland of Iran, stating that the collection connects her family, food, and business “across time and place.” This claim rings true, with dishes that will be less familiar to American palates, including fesenjan (“an ancient, celebratory stew”) and parsi sev (breakfast noodles), as well as some more familiar items such as blueberry muffins and pancakes. The thorough introduction to yogurt-making itself examines key decisions such as which milk to use and whether to strain. Dashtaki proves a skilled and thoughtful writer, and her reverence for the dishes she offers makes this a treat.

Starred review from April 21, 2023

This standout meditation on yogurt, its byproduct whey, community, memory, and the power of food is designed with focused intent, largely illustrated with pencil sketches and a restrained color palette (although there are also two color insert sections). The result is akin to a sonnet. Dashtaki, who runs the White Moustache Yogurt company, begins with an introduction to her immigrant experience and Zoroastrianism, as her family is from a Zoroastrian village in Iran. Reading these initial pages feels akin to being welcomed to an intimate yet lively feast in Dashtaki's home, one where she offers stories and instructions, shares what she can in English, and highlights what is not translatable. The feast begins with instructions on how to make yogurt over three days and harvest its whey, before turning these into labneh, kashk, and gharagooroot. After that, Dashtaki demonstrates the many ways these products can be used as ingredients. The delicious possibilities are expansive, from cauliflower whey soup to sweet beet preserves. Chapters are arranged by category, and each is introduced by a headnote, as are the recipes themselves. VERDICT Destined to be an iconic cookbook, this is an essential work.--Neal Wyatt

Copyright 2023 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.